I have written before the words of men smarter than I, "It isn't a silver bullet, but the right mix of weapons that wins a war." One of the tenants of modern warfare is that "you don't win by withdrawal."
But you can't always be on the offensive, so what do you do? You become offensively defensive. Napoleon and Hitler both found out the hard way that "offensive defense" will suck the combat power out of your Army quickly. Let us set up a scenario, you are a German Jew in an alternate timeline where Hitler's rise to power happened in the 1960's. You've seen the writing on the wall and decide to be "Defiant" and resist to the end. You don't have a "silver bullet" weapon that will win your war, but you have access to a few hunting rifles and some captured military hardware.
So how do you get the right mix with what you have? By choosing the time and place of the fight. To choose wisely you need to know what you have, and what it can do, and where it can be most effective.
If you have four men with AK's, and four men with bolt action 30-06 Deer rifles, how do you match them up to kill the most of the jack booted thugs who come to kill them? Do you mate them up as sniper teams? Not likely, sniping and spotting is a skilled task. Better to make two teams of bolt rifle men at ranges 400 to 800 meters away from the kill zone, and the short range riflemen between 150 and 250 meters away. Spread them out so that a mortar round won't kill all four. Spread the bolt riflemen out so that their sectors of fire provide each other security.
What you do is set them up into three or four positions, so that the men with AK's can use a "reverse slope defense" of their position, and the bolt action long range teams can cover the flanks. A reverse slope defense is not intuitive, it is staying well behind the crest of a hill so that the enemy comes into view and gets shot. The downside is that if you lack the firepower to kill the enemy as they present themselves you will be overrun, but the tactical advantage is that the enemy cannot mass firepower against you.
A properly prepared defense is made by the acronym PMSDF. Preparation, Massing Effects, Security, Disruption, and Flexibility.
Never stop preparing, prepare fields of fire, prepare avenues of egress, prepare obstacles to channel the aggressor. Massing effects means that you coordinate your assets so that you kill the most of them for the least of you, do this by assigning sectors of fire and priorities of fire. Security, if you don't have 360 security you are killing yourself and your men, if you don't conceal yourself from the "eyes in the sky" then you are killing yourself all over again, even at night.
Disrupt the enemies movements, plans, and tempo. And flexibility, make sure you can flex out of any one position to fight from another. Even your "go to hell plan" needs to have two or three variations.
But use the terrain, find a slope that you can overwatch with long rifles and defend with shorter range weapons, keep a river or swamp between you and the enemy if you can. Natural obstacles are just as effective as concertina wire or a tank ditch. Complex urban terrain requires a lot more planning, and has more risks of civilian interference. However life is risky, and we reduce risk by planning.
So plan your defense. Then attack yourself and see if you can flank your planned position, or if you can find an avenue of approach that allows the attackers to set up intersecting grazing fire. Then adjust your defenses to deny the attacker those advantages. Accept some risk, but mitigate it to the best of your ability by planning, preparing, and practicing "offensive defense."
Some comments from L&P
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Everyone should already be constantly evaluating your home defenses using a layered defense plan, especially if you plan on staying in place. But you should also have an egress plan, in case your original plan becomes untenable.
When defense of cache and "rally" points are already taken care of, it'll give a little breathing room for offensive planning.
Special Forces Caching Techniques
http://www.scribd.com/doc/3036556/Special-Forces-Caching-Techniques-TC-3129A
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Don't forget little things like Terrain modification. A little fence and some tangle-foot will go a long way toward making an area more defensible. A steep bank with some tangle-foot can be covered by much fewer people than an open field.
A lake can help secure an area, or a field that is plowed and then soaked with water can bog down most armored vehicles. A trench filled with water can limit vehicles and make it hard for personal to access an area, add some tangle-foot above and below the water can make it even harder to cross.
Any Tank can be stopped by the proper trench. A small bulldozer, or backhoe can become a very good friend when making an area defensible.
A proper fight hole, a trench, some tangle-foot, sand bags, and some sweat equity can greatly increase the defensibility of an area. You can even find out how big of a trench you need to stop a tank on line.
Tangle-foot for those who do not know is barb wire set in wild patterns about a foot above the ground, people trip over it and get their feet tangled and can't move fast. A fence with tangle-foot in front of it and behind it is tough to get across. You can use fences like this to funnel people where you want them to go, because people will follow the path of lease resistance.
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Barbed wire strung in such a manner is a Force multiplier: It makes the opfor hesitant about entering such area's, as anyone taking such measures will be unlikely to stop there with the defenses.
Always note area's in your defenses that need bolstering and have the items to do it close at hand, if you know an area will need a barricade, have the items close to where they will be installed. if you plan to string some security lights, have them already built up and ready to go.
The last minute, will not be the best time to run around finding and placing your defensive/security items.
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For most vehicles, it will just be a couple large "speed bump mounds" when the vehicle goes over the first, hits the second... bottom out time.
Or just dig out a trench out across a choke point a little over the size of standard tires and about as deep as the tire, mounding the dirt up on your side of the barrier as a "backstop" to keep the vehicle from pushing on through. When the tire drops into the trench, vehicle is neutralized and blocking that point
For std trucks the the trough will need to be deeper... just trying to get the front end into the ground with the tail high.
There are many variables, but the vehicle barriers/entrapment area's should also be layered using mounds, trenches and barricades... choke an avenue off and you force the bad guys into you're choke point where they can be dealt with, or better yet, get them thinking about hitting a softer target.
Continued.
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l depends on what you want to stop.
For most vehicles it is just a set of trenches deep enough to bottom our the truck/SUV/Car.
It would look like this.
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The trenches being three feet, or more deep and spaced so a wheeled vehicle can't get over one with out being stuck in the other.
Here is a link to anti-tank trenches.
http://www.pillboxes-suffolk.webeden.co.uk/#/anti-tank-ditches/4537159718
I can't find it right now, but I believe an M1A2 can scale a 48" vertical wall. That would mean the vertical side would need to be at least 60" to stop one. That can be affected by the angle of the entry into the trench, as a down ward slope would increase the angle on the vertical wall.
There is an FMF publication on this, but right now I can't find it as I don't have the time to look for it today.
Here is a link to all military manuals.
http://stevespages.com/page7c.htm