Hẻm Gems: Tan Dinh's All-Conquering Bánh Canh Cua

 

Yum, yum. :)

Bánh canh, at times described as Vietnamese udon or even “mouse-tail noodles,” is a great mystery on its own. Etymologically speaking, bánh canh translates to “soup-cake,” and these thick, cylindrical noodles made with tapioca and rice flour of varying ratios do invoke a sense of cognitive dissonance.
Accompanied by a pescetarian acquaintance, we set out to discover an establishment serving what has been described to me as a “bánh canh that would render all other bánh canh [undesirable].”

Our orders came within a minute and the bowl of noodles was nicely assembled, containing all of the components that make a truly Saigonese bánh canh irresistible.

Each portion includes two large shrimps, a crab cake, de-shelled crab and straw mushrooms all topped with blood pudding (huyết) and a quail egg. The vendor also offers quẩy, known in English as “Chinese donuts” or “oil-sticks,” to complement the signature thick and savory broth of Saigonese bánh canh cua. Banh Canh 87’s liberal use of straw mushrooms results in an unmistakably clean and umami aftertaste.

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